Natural materials include cotton, doyo and silk which are used as basic materials in traditional weaving. All materials come from plants whose habitats are widespread throughout Indonesia.
Traditional weaving uses basic materials from plants which produce fibers or plants which produce dyes. The main basic materials are cotton from cotton fibers and silk produced from silkworm cocoon threads. However, there are also those who use other, coarser natural fibers such as Doyo. This fiber is obtained from doyo leaves, after processing it will produce Doyo Ulap Ikat Weaving. The manual manufacturing technique uses simple traditional weaving tools made from wood and bamboo.
Ikat Ulap Doyo weaving comes from Kalimantan Island and is made based on local wisdom using natural fibers. Natural fibers are produced from certain plants that live on the island of Kalimantan. Many areas outside Kalimantan produce typical crafts such as Ulap Doyo, but they use fibers from different materials. The Ikat weaving producing areas usually produce certain patterns and colors that are unique to the region. This depends on the natural resources in the form of plants and minerals available in each region. Fibers produced from bark or fibers from plant leaves.
Catton fiber, start collecting old cotton pods, marked with brownish black fruit, and the fruit has cracked showing cotton fibers under the skin of the fruit. Mature fruit is harvested from cotton trees that produce fruit after at least 8 years of age after planting.
Separating the cotton fiber from the cotton seed in the middle of the cotton fiber wrapping, Clean the cotton fiber from broken twigs. The side of the seed coat then the cotton fiber is formed in small lumps Spin cotton with simple tools, starting with twisting the cotton and winding the resulting yarn. Silkworm cocoons FiberThe process is almost the same as spinning cotton, except that what is spun here is the fine fiber that wraps the cocoon
Doyo Leaf fiber In East Kalimantan, there is one tribe that inhabits the interior of the forest, the Dayak tribe from the Benuaq Family, so they are known as the Benuaq Dayak. This tribe has local wisdom in the form of weaving skills using plant fibers as basic materials. The plants that produce the fiber are Doyo leaves, doyo plants live widely scattered on the forest floor, and the height of the plant leaves is about 30-65 cm from the ground.
To produce good quality fiber material, healthy old leaves are selected, namely whole leaves without tears. To take the fiber contained in the leaves, the Doyo leaves must be soaked for several days so that later the fiber will show. After that, Doyo fiber is collected and dried under the hot sun. After the doyo fiber is dry, it is combed to remove the by-products so that pure fiber will be produced. After that the fiber is ready to be spun into yarn and will produce Ulap Doyo cloth.
Create a Color Pattern Making dyes on threads or fibers of woven materials by immersion in dyes heated in a furnace. The liquid dye is boiled in a container over the fire after the water boils, the fiber or yarn is then put into a vessel containing the dye liquid. Then the fire is turned off by leaving the coals and the thread or fiber left for three days. After three days the threads are removed, rinsed with water, and dried in the hot sun.
After the yarn or fiber is dry it is ready to be used as a weaving material
- The black color is obtained from the soot of the resinous sap or water soaked in ironwood leaves or water soaking the skin of rambutan fruit.
- Yellow color, from turmeric rhizome soaking water
- Brown color, obtained by soaking gambier sap
- Red color, obtained from soaking noni roots and mangosteen rind
Use of loom The loom used is a traditional loom in a simple form and system. The weaving process begins by placing the yarn or fiber in a vertical position on the Jingjingan located at the top of the loom. This yarn called Lungsi yarn is attached to the loom as the base yarn. Later this vertical thread will give the basic color to the woven fabric.
After the vertical thread has been tied to the loom, then proceed with inserting the weft thread, namely the thread in a horizontal position. The process of inserting this weft is by counting the number of vertical threads to be woven, counting the groups of threads must be done carefully so that the woven fabric that will be produced shows the motifs and patterns according to the planned pattern.
- The black color is obtained from the root of the resinous sap or water soaked in ironwood leaves or water soaking the skin of rambutan fruit.
- Yellow color, from turmeric rhizome soaking water
- Brown color, obtained by soaking gambier sap
- Red color, obtained from soaking noni roots and mangosteen rind
Woven fabric manufacturing process The loom used is a traditional loom in a simple form and system. The weaving process begins by placing the yarn or fiber in a vertical position on the Jingjingan located at the top of the loom. This yarn called Lungsi yarn is attached to the loom as the base yarn. Later this vertical thread will give the basic color to the woven fabric.
After the vertical thread has been tied to the loom, then proceed with inserting the weft thread, namely the thread in a horizontal position. The process of inserting this weft is by counting the number of vertical threads to be woven, counting the groups of threads must be done carefully so that the woven fabric that will be produced shows the motifs and patterns according to the planned pattern. In doing their work, the workers are seated in a sitting position on the floor, with their legs extended forward, under the loom.
The main parts that make up the loom. Installing the warp threads in the vertical position of the loom, the place to tie the warp threads is called Jingjingan
- Pieces of bamboo blades as an instrument to insert the weft, called Taropong.
- After the weft thread has been inserted it will then be pushed to be tightened with another weft thread that was first installed, this tool is called Barera.
- On it there is a separate bamboo blade used for tightening and tidying the weft, called a comb.
- The part that serves to roll the woven results, is located closest to the position of the weaver called Hapit Penggulung.
